Thanks to Murray (MUZ)

With Thanks to Muz, Without Whom This Would Not Be Here

Sunday, March 17, 2013

Autumn is Perfect

Such a nice day so rode up to the Tawonga Gap and Sullivans Lookout.

Friday, February 15, 2013

Club Plates Soon

The 380 is 100% roadworthy however there is no one in the area who does motorcycle RWC. So I'm joining a nearby classic car and motorcycle club and putting the bike on club plates. This is considerably cheaper and I can choose to pay for 50 or 100 days a year riding. I'll take the 50 seeing as I'd never use the bike in wet or inclement weather. So I should be riding by early March.

Wednesday, October 17, 2012

New Triple Clamp

In an earlier post I stated that the top yoke or triple clamp had cracks in it.You can see the crack at the upper side of the triple clamp. There is a crack in the same position on the other side. I have no idea how they got there. I can imagine someone doing one side up too tight, but after cracking it I can't see why they would overtighten the other side. One of the mysteries of motorcycling I suppose.

This came in the mail today.
Brand new old stock, still in the original bag. After fitting this I only have to get the flasher can (on order) and then it's basically roadworthy. I don't want to ride it too much until I get baffles for the exhaust. Unless the bike has been rejetted which I doubt, there is a good chance of it running too lean and damaging the engine. The fuel tap is still leaking. The 'O' ring on the vacuum diaphragm needs replacing however when you get a rebuild kit they don't include the 'O' ring. Seems stupid to me but that's how it is.

Saturday, October 13, 2012


The 380 runs very well and smooth. I thought it was a little noisy and lacked a bit of low down torque. Found the problem, no baffles in the exhaust. Well seeing as baffles are just a bit of pipe with holes I thought they would be cheap. Was I wrong. A set of new ones runs over $350 plus freight. They have to come from overseas so I imagine at least $400.

As I said they are very straightforward things so I'm trying to get the specs and fabricate a set.

Saturday, October 6, 2012

It Goes!!!!

Well I still have a leaking fuel tap, the $40 rebuild kit didn't work. The top triple clamp needs replacing and the blinkers don't work.

BUT It Goes!!!. I have started it several times and got it idling and running. It starts well and runs smoothly, I have taken it out a couple of times and have done 17 miles (the speedo is in MPH) and it runs well. No vibrations and feels good and strong. Well, strong for a 1970's small bike.

I ran up the Tawonga Gap and back. Just taking it easy, this bikes not for riding hard or stupidity just cruising. I did notice that 1972 drum brakes aren't quite as good as modern discs but what do you expect?

I also observed that under acceleration there was a huge quantity of blue smoke behind me. Well I do have the oil pump connected and at the same time I'm running premix so I guess that's ok for the moment. I'd rather have a fouled plug than a seized engine.

I checked the oil pump setting this afternoon......way out, way too much going in. I have set it as per factory now....but it's pouring rain and I'm not going out in the wet. Maybe tomorrow.

I do have a big grin on my face. I need to replace the triple clamp (on order) and the indicator relay and the fuel tap, but who cares? Then a roadworthy and club plates.

I'll get a video and post it in the next few days.

Friday, September 14, 2012

GT380 Gear Selector Problem Solved?

I was thinking about the gear box problem. It was strange how the gear lever had no spring back. So I removed the right hand crankcase cover, and the clutch. There was a spring behind the selector arm but it didn't look right and didn't seem to be doing much but I couldn't remember how it should look. I went to the workshop manual, no use. It had an exploded view of the components but not how they actually fitted together.

Now I took quite a lot of photos of the engine during disassembly and went through them. I came to the one below.

You can see the selector arm and that the spring is tight on either side of a fixed pivot on the crankcase. Mine wasn't like that it was flopping around. I must not have assembled it correctly. So I placed it in the correct position and now the lever springs back to where it should be after changing gear. I'll put it back together today and see if it works.